Salt and Breath at the Kitchen Table

Combining Jose Saramago + Samuel Beckett | Blindness + Molloy


She opened her mouth to call him and what came out was a breath, an intention, the shape of something she could feel pressing against the backs of her teeth, two syllables, the first one hard like a door closing, but the word itself did not arrive. She stood in the doorway of their kitchen with a coffee cup in each hand and tried again. Nothing. Or not nothing exactly. A fullness in her throat like swallowing in reverse. She knew his name. She could feel its weight, its rhythm, the way the second syllable dropped lower than the first. She could feel where it lived in her mouth. She could not make it come out.

The morning light was wrong for this. Too ordinary. The sun came through the kitchen window the same way it had come through the kitchen window for twenty-two years, finding the crack in the linoleum by the stove and the water stain on the ceiling above the sink that looked like a map of a country neither of them had visited, and all of this was so familiar and so present that the absence in her mouth felt like a trick, a joke someone was playing, except that there was no punchline and no one was laughing and she was still standing in the doorway with two cups of coffee that were getting cold.

She set one cup on the table in front of him and he looked up and something in his face told her he had been trying too. His mouth had that particular set to it. The muscles around his jaw were tight the way they were when he was searching for a word in a language he did not speak well, which until this morning had not included his own.

Thank you, he said.

She sat down across from him. The kitchen was narrow, tiled in a green that had been fashionable thirty years ago and was now simply the color of their kitchen, and the table between them was small enough that their knees almost touched beneath it, and on the table there was the salt shaker and the butter dish and the newspaper he could no longer read because the headlines were full of names that had stopped meaning anything, names of politicians and athletes and criminals and the dead, all equally opaque, all equally a row of letters that refused to assemble into a person.

She tried once more. The sound she made was almost a hum. Two beats. Stress on the first. She could feel the first consonant pressing against her upper teeth, almost there, like someone pushing against a door that was not locked but would not open.

He tilted his head. Yes, he said. That is the shape of it.

They drank their coffee. She tried his name four more times before the cups were empty. Each attempt was slightly less than the one before it. Not dramatically less. A diminishment so small you could only measure it from the outside, the way you can only see the hour hand move if you look away and come back.


The neighbor in the stairwell confirmed it the next morning. Elara had gone down to check the post, though there was no post — the postman had not come in three days, for reasons that would become clear soon enough — and the neighbor was standing by the row of letterboxes with her hand on the wall as though she needed steadying.

You, the neighbor said. Her voice was careful, the way people’s voices become when they are constructing a sentence around a hole.

Yes, Elara said.

I know you, the neighbor said. You live on the fourth floor. You have that plant on your landing, the one with the purple flowers that needs watering more than you water it. I was at your dinner party in October. I sat next to your husband. I cannot remember your name.

Elara studied the woman’s face. She knew this face. She knew that this woman’s daughter taught mathematics at the secondary school on the hill and that this woman’s husband had died two years ago and that this woman kept a small dog that barked at pigeons from the balcony with a conviction that suggested the dog believed the pigeons would eventually listen. She knew everything about this woman except the word that summoned her.

I cannot remember yours either, Elara said.

They stood in the stairwell looking at each other. The light from the narrow window above the landing fell between them and dust moved in it, slowly, the way dust moves when it has nowhere to be. They knew each other completely. They were strangers. The two conditions did not cancel each other out.

Elara’s training fired before she could stop it. Forty-one years as a speech-language pathologist. She had spent her career in rooms with people who could not find words, who circled around the absent term like birds around a chimney, reaching for it with circumlocutions and gestures and the frustration that comes from knowing that the thing you cannot say is a thing you have said ten thousand times. She recognized what she was seeing in this stairwell with the clarity of a mechanic who hears a sound in her own engine and knows exactly which bearing is failing.

Anomic aphasia, she said.

What, the neighbor said.

The inability to recall proper names. It is a neurological condition, it affects the temporal lobe, the left temporal lobe specifically, there is a region there whose only job is to store and retrieve the words we use for singular things, people and places and institutions, and when that region is damaged the words stay in the brain but the pathway to them is blocked, the brain still has the name, it cannot access it. I spent forty-one years helping people with this condition. She paused. In individual cases, she said. There are therapies. Cueing strategies. Repetition. Semantic association. They work. Sometimes they work.

The neighbor stared at her. And for everyone at once, she said.

Elara said nothing. The neighbor’s dog was barking upstairs. A pigeon, probably.

She went back up to the apartment and picked up her phone. Her former colleague at the university hospital was saved under a name she could no longer read — the letters on the screen were familiar, she could parse each one individually, E and then L and then I and so on, but they would not assemble into the person she was trying to reach, the way you can hold all the pieces of a jigsaw puzzle and still not see the picture. She dialed by the shape of the number. She knew this number the way she knew the route from her bed to the bathroom, by body, by habit, by the accumulated wear of use.

The phone rang four times. A voice answered. A woman’s voice. A voice she recognized the way she recognized the neighbor’s face, completely, without the word.

I know why you are calling, the voice said. I cannot remember your name either. I cannot remember any of their names. I have been sitting here for an hour looking at my staff directory and I can read every word on the page except the names. I can read the job titles and the office numbers and the email addresses up to the part before the at sign and then the name is just — it is like looking at a word in a language you have never studied. You can see it. You cannot hear it in your head.

How many, Elara said.

Everyone, the voice said. As far as I can tell. Everyone.


She tried the techniques. She tried them all. She was methodical about it because she had been methodical her entire career and because methodical was the shape her fear took when it could not find another form.

Semantic cueing first. She sat across from him at the kitchen table — it was always the kitchen table, it would always be the kitchen table, the clinic she could not help building out of whatever domestic surface was available — and she said, Your name starts with the sound you make when you are disappointed. Not angry. Disappointed. The small sound, the one that drops.

He looked at her. He thought about it. He made several sounds. A breath. A soft consonant. Something that might have been the beginning of something else. None of them were the beginning of his name or, rather, all of them could have been, and none of them were, and the distinction between these two conditions was shrinking daily.

Phonemic cueing next. She hummed the rhythm. Two syllables. Long short. A waltz step with only two beats. She hummed it and he leaned forward and hummed it back, the same two beats, the same shape, and for a moment they were close, they were so close, the name was almost there between them like a soap bubble that would pop if either of them reached for it.

They hummed again. They sat across from each other humming. Two people in their late sixties making vowel sounds at each other across a kitchen table. Like a pair of owls who have forgotten the point of hooting. Like something from a nature programme about mating calls in species that had forgotten what they were mating for. The absurdity of it sat in the kitchen with them like a third person, pulling up a chair, helping itself to coffee.

He laughed. It was a good laugh. She wanted to laugh too but the clinician in her would not permit it because laughter meant the exercise had failed and if the exercise failed then what remained was not an exercise at all but two people sitting in a kitchen without each other’s names, and she was not ready for what that meant.

Word-association next. She described his job, his habits, the registry office. She said, You worked with names your whole life, you recorded them, births and marriages and deaths, you wrote them in ledgers, you pressed the letters into carbon paper, you made names official. He nodded. He knew all of this. He knew the weight of the pen and the smell of the ledger and the particular sound the office door made when it swung shut at five o’clock. The name remained absent.

She went to the bedroom closet and pulled out the box.

The flashcards were in a plastic case, beige, the kind they issued to clinicians in the early nineties. She had not opened it in twenty-three years. The cards were yellowed at the edges and some had a faint coffee ring on the back from when she had used them on a different kitchen table in a different apartment with a different husband who had suffered a stroke at thirty-four and whose temporal lobe had been damaged in the precise area that stores proper nouns.

She had been twenty-nine. She had been a young clinician with a young clinician’s belief that the right technique applied with sufficient precision could bridge any gap the brain had torn in itself. She had treated Tomaz — she could not say his name now either, but she could feel its three syllables, could feel the way it opened at the end like a door left ajar — she had treated him as a patient. She had run drills. She had held up cards. She had sat across from him with her clinical posture, her encouraging nod, her professional patience that she now understood was not patience at all but a refusal to feel what she was supposed to be feeling, and she had asked him to name things. Fork. Cup. Window. Cat. And he had named them, mostly, because common nouns were not the problem, common nouns came back with therapy, with repetition, with the grinding persistence of a brain that wanted to work properly and could, for most of its vocabulary. It was the proper nouns that stayed lost, the names of people and streets and cities, the words that pointed at only one thing in the world and therefore had no synonym, no workaround, no path around the gap.

He had died during one of their sessions. She was holding up a card — she could not remember which one, whether it was a picture of a dog or a house or a tree, and this not-remembering had become part of the memory itself, the blank card held up in the air while his eyes went somewhere she could not follow — and his second stroke hit and he slumped in his chair and she was holding a flashcard and calling for the ambulance she could not summon by name and he was gone.

She had married again. She had married a man who worked with names all day, who wrote them in ledgers, who believed in the official power of a word recorded in ink. She had married him and for twenty-two years she had not opened the box of flashcards because she did not need them because nobody needed them because names were what people had, reliably, the way they had fingers and breath and the knowledge of where the salt was kept.

She dealt the cards on the table. She held one up.

He looked at it. He looked at her.

She held up another. A drawing of a house. Common noun. He said, House. This was not the problem. This had never been the problem.

She held up a third. Her hand was steady. It was always steady. That was the problem.

She put the cards down. She picked them up. She put them down again. Each time she picked them up there was less reason to hold them and each time she put them down there was less surface to put them on. Not literally. The table was the same table. But something was diminishing. The exercise. The point of the exercise. The belief that the exercise had a point.

She left the cards on the table and went to the window and looked out at the city that was losing its names.


What she saw, and what anyone would have seen who had eyes to look and the willingness to understand what looking now required, was a city that had begun to unmake itself not in the dramatic fashion of earthquake or flood but in the slow and almost bureaucratic fashion of a system whose filing labels have been removed, so that the drawers are still there, and the files are still there, and the building that houses the files is still there, but nobody can find anything because the names on the tabs are gone, and this is what was happening in the city that was probably Lisbon though nobody could confirm this any longer because the name of the city was a proper noun and proper nouns were exactly what had ceased to function, the street signs had become unreadable not because the letters had faded but because the letters no longer assembled into the names they had once spelled, and the postal workers who had continued their routes for the first week out of the sheer momentum of habit had gradually slowed and then stopped, like mechanical toys winding down, because you cannot deliver a letter to a name that nobody recognizes, and the letters themselves had become strange objects, envelopes addressed to people who existed but could not be summoned, each envelope a small accusation, a proof that someone somewhere had once known a name that was now beyond everyone’s reach, and the postal workers gathered in their depot, which they could no longer call by its name, and they studied the envelopes and turned them over in their rough hands, and one of them, a woman whose fingers were thick from decades of letterboxes and rubber bands and the particular grip required to slide a folded paper through a slot that is always slightly too narrow, this woman suggested that they deliver by description instead, that instead of names they use the physical features of the buildings, the blue door on the street that climbs, the house with the cracked lintel near the church whose name we have also forgotten, and this system was adopted, not officially, because official adoption required paperwork and paperwork required names in the headers and the footers and the signature lines, but in the way that paths are worn through grass, by use, by need, by the accumulated passage of feet choosing the same route until the ground concedes.

Elara walked through the campus where she had taught for twenty-six years. The buildings still stood. The students still came, navigating not by the names of buildings but by their shapes and positions, cutting new paths across the lawns, diagonal lines worn into the grass where no paths had been designed, because the designed paths followed a logic of named destinations and when the names dissolved the logic dissolved with them and what emerged was something rawer, something determined by proximity and sight and the body’s ancient preference for the shortest distance between where it is and where it wants to be, desire paths, the planners called them, and Elara walked along one of these paths now, her feet in the shallow groove that dozens of students had already pressed into the November mud.

She passed the civil registry office where her husband had worked for thirty years, recording births and marriages and deaths, all acts that depended on names the way bridges depend on their abutments, and the office was closed, not locked but simply empty, because the registrars had come to work and sat at their desks and opened their ledgers and found that they could not do what they had always done, you cannot register a birth without a name for the child, you cannot record a marriage without the names of the people being married, you cannot file a death certificate for a person whose name you cannot write, and so they had sat there for a while in the strange formality of people who have arrived at work only to discover that work no longer exists, and then they had gone home, one by one, and the ledgers remained open on the desks like mouths.

At the bakery on the corner the man whose left hand trembled — she had always known his name and now she did not, but she knew the tremor, she knew the way his right hand compensated when he placed a loaf on the counter, the slight overcorrection, the bread landing a centimeter too far to the left — at the bakery the loaves were still labeled with the names of their varieties, sourdough, rye, wheat, because these were common nouns and common nouns still held, it was only the proper nouns that had fallen away, only the words that pointed at singular things, the words you could not replace with a description or a synonym because they were already the most compressed version of what they meant, a name is the shortest possible route from intention to person, one syllable or two or three that collapses the entire sprawling biography of a human being into a sound you can make while passing the salt, and when that compression fails what remains is the sprawl itself, and the sprawl is too large to pass across a kitchen table, and Elara thought of this as she bought her bread and paid in coins that still bore numbers because numbers were not names, and she walked home through a city that was adapting the way cities adapt to everything, not gracefully, not completely, but with the blunt dogged persistence of organisms that intend to continue regardless of whether continuing makes sense.

She carried a notebook. She had started it on the fourth day. In the notebook she wrote descriptions. Not names. She had no names to write. She wrote: the woman in the stairwell with the cough. The man at the bakery whose left hand trembles. The girl on the third floor who plays piano in the afternoons, badly, but with conviction. She wrote: the building with the broken clock. The fountain that no longer works. The street that goes uphill past the wall with the blue tiles.

The notebook grew. It was becoming a concordance of the nameless city. Not an index — an index requires names as headwords, entries that point from the known to the unknown. A concordance. A systematic catalog of descriptions organized by nothing, leading to nothing, pointing at everything.


In the second week the condition spread to the parts of the city that had thought themselves immune, which is to say the parts that had not yet noticed, which is to say the parts where people lived alone and had no one to call by name and therefore no occasion to discover that the name was gone. An old man on the sixth floor of their building came down to the stairwell on the ninth day and stood there for a long time and then knocked on their door and said, I cannot remember my own name, can you tell me what it is, and Elara could not, and her husband could not, and the three of them stood in the doorway in a silence that had a specific shape, the shape of three people who could see each other perfectly well and had lost the one-word shortcuts that would have made this seeing efficient.

Elara brought the old man coffee. He held the cup. His hands were spotted and steady. He said, I know where I live, I know the number of my apartment, I know that I was an engineer, I know the names of my tools — wrench, caliper, level — but I cannot remember what to call myself. Is this going to end.

Elara said, I do not know. She wanted to say more. She wanted to explain the neurology, the temporal lobe, the retrieval pathways. But individual cases were no longer what this was. Individual cases were a concept from the world before the stairwell, before the old man on the sixth floor, before the postman stopped coming, and that world was less than two weeks behind them and already it felt like a country she had emigrated from in childhood.

She tried her husband’s name that evening. She tried it the way she had learned to try it, clinically, with cueing, with rhythm, with association. She hummed the two syllables. He did not hum back. He was washing dishes. The water ran over his hands and the soap made small sounds against the plates and he did not hum back.

She tried again before bed. Two syllables. The first one hard against the teeth.

Not tonight, he said. His voice was kind. He was not rejecting her. He was rejecting the exercise, which was different, though Elara was not sure she could feel the difference, because the exercise had become the way she reached for him, and if the exercise was rejected then she was standing in the gap with nothing in her hands, and the gap was the same gap it had always been, the distance between one person and another that a name used to cross in an instant and that now stretched out in all directions like a field without a path.

She lay in bed. She stared at the ceiling. The water stain was above her, the country neither of them had visited, and it occurred to her that they had never named this country either, that for twenty-two years they had looked at it and said, the stain, or, that thing on the ceiling, and it had not mattered because water stains do not need names, water stains are common nouns, they belong to categories, and categories still worked. It was only the singular things that had fallen through the gap. The things that existed once, in one place, as one instance. Him. Her. The city they lived in. The dead husband whose syllables she could feel opening at the end like a door left ajar.

She tried his name silently, moving her lips in the dark. Two syllables. The shape of it. She tried it seven times. Each attempt was slightly less. She stopped counting. She tried again. She stopped.


Three weeks. He stopped trying altogether. She could not say exactly when. There was no announcement. He did not sit her down at the kitchen table and tell her he was giving up. He simply stopped humming back.

She would hum the rhythm. Two syllables. Long short. And he would look at her. And he would not hum.

She would enter the room with the expectation of being summoned. She carried the expectation in her body — the slight lean forward, the held breath, the readiness to respond to a word that would shape the air between them into something specific, something that meant her and only her. And he would look up. And he would nod. And no word came.

He began to move through the apartment by touch. His hand ran along the counter as he walked from the stove to the sink. His feet found the edges of the rooms by memory, by the way the linoleum changed to carpet at the threshold, by the draft from the window in the hallway that never closed properly. He passed her the salt without being asked. He knew where the salt was. He knew where she was. He knew what she needed without the word for any of it.

She watched his hand on the counter, the way it trailed along the surface, proprioceptive, navigating by the body’s knowledge of its own position in space. He was not blind. He could see the kitchen perfectly well. But he was moving through it the way she imagined he would move through it if it were dark, and she understood — not in the clinical way she understood anomic aphasia, with its lesion sites and its retrieval failures and its neat diagrams of the temporal lobe, but in the other way, the way you understand a thing that is happening in front of you — she understood that he was learning to live in the kitchen without names, by touch, by the weight of objects, by the temperature of surfaces, the way you learn to live in a room after the furniture has been rearranged, by bumping into things at first and then by not bumping into things, and then by forgetting that the furniture was ever anywhere else.

The flashcards were still on the table. She had not put them away. They sat in their pile between the salt and the butter dish and they occupied their square inches of table with the patience of objects that have outlived their function and know it and intend to remain anyway.

She picked them up. She sat down across from him. He was eating bread. He looked at the cards and he looked at her and his face did something she recognized.

She had seen this face before. Not his face. The other face. Twenty-three years ago and the same expression. The face of a man sitting across a kitchen table from a woman who was holding flashcards when she should have been holding his hand. Not anger. Not even disappointment. Something quieter than both and worse than either.

She looked at the card in her hand. She could not read it. The word she had written on it — twenty-five years ago, twenty-three, she could not be sure, time was doing what names were doing, becoming approximate, its edges softening — the word was there on the card in her own handwriting but it would not become itself, it would not cross the gap between ink and meaning.

She put the card down.

She put her hand on the table, palm up, near the salt shaker. She did not reach for him. She did not perform the gesture of reaching. She placed her hand there the way you place an object on a surface, with no expectation, with no clinical purpose, with nothing.


He put his hand in hers. Not immediately. There was a pause in which neither of them moved and the kitchen was very still and the light above the sink flickered the way it always flickered, a loose connection he kept meaning to fix and had not fixed and would probably not fix because fixing it required calling an electrician and calling required a name and a name was not what they had, though they had the light, and the flicker, and the meaning to fix it, which is its own kind of thing.

His hand was warm. It was the hand of a man who had spent the morning holding bread and coffee cups and the edges of counters. She knew this hand. She did not need to name it. It was the hand that had signed thirty years of birth certificates and marriage licenses and death records, the hand that had held her coat while she put on her shoes, the hand that had found the small of her back in crowds without looking for it, and it was in her hand now, and it was warm, and his name was not in it, his name was nowhere, his name was the shape her mouth made when she opened it and nothing came out.

She tried. Two syllables. A door closing and then a lower sound. The feel of it against her teeth. It was there. It was so close she could taste the air around it. It did not come.

The coffee between them was going cold. The crack in the linoleum by the stove was still there. The notebook sat open on the counter behind her.

She had written a new entry that morning. She had written: the man at the table who takes his coffee with too much sugar.

Outside, the city was paving the desire paths. She had seen the workers that morning, laying asphalt over the trails the students had worn through the grass, and the new paths were becoming the official paths, and already someone had proposed numbering them, assigning them coordinates, because that is what cities do with paths that people make for themselves, they absorb them, they pave them, they give them numbers if not names, and the bureaucratic language was already bloating with the effort of saying in forty words what a name said in one.

The postal service had adopted the system of physical descriptions and it was already too long, already calcifying into the kind of convention that would need, someday, its own dismantling. The letter for the woman with the cough on the fourth floor of the building with the blue door on the street that climbs. Twenty-three words for what used to be two.

He let go of her hand. He stood and took their cups to the sink and rinsed them and set them upside down on the rack. His hand trailed along the counter on the way back. He sat down. He opened the newspaper to the section that still worked, the weather, which needed no names, only numbers and directions, and he read it or appeared to read it, and outside a pigeon landed on the balcony railing of the floor below and the neighbor’s dog began to bark with the conviction of an animal that has identified the problem and will not stop identifying it until the problem goes away, and the problem did not go away, and the dog kept barking, and the name did not come, and the linoleum crack held its ground, and the light flickered.